 |
| Figure
1. Individual treefrogs can change
color between green and brown tones in a few minutes.
This color change is related to the temperature and amount
of moisture in the air, not to the background color as
is the case for most reptiles. (Photo by Jon McGinnis.) |
|
|
Frogs, along with salamanders and newts, are members
of the animal group called amphibians. Amphibians (from the Greek
words amphi, meaning "both," and bios or "life") are fittingly named.
Frogs start their lives as totally aquatic animals with gills and
a pronounced tail fin; this is familiar to many people as the tadpole
stage. Over time, legs develop, the tail and gills are absorbed,
and the frog becomes a terrestrial, air-breathing animal (Fig. 2).
The Pacific treefrog (Pseudacris regilla,
Fig. 1) is the smallest but most commonly
seen and heard frog in Washington, and for that reason much of this
handout is devoted to it. For information on the other native species
of frogs, see Table 1.
The Pacific treefrog is an adaptable species found
from rainforests near sea level, to mountains at 11,000 feet, and
on into dry interior areas of Washington where water is available.
Adults measure 2 inches in length and vary in color from a bronze
brown to a light lime green, and from solid in color to intricate
patterns. A sharply defined black mask extends from the tip of its
snout to its shoulder.
The "song" or call of the male treefrog, designed
to attract females, is a loud, two-part kreck-ek, or a ribbit,
often repeated many times. This calling stimulates other males to
join in, and large concentrations of these frogs can be heard far
away, especially on nights when air temperatures remain above 45
degrees. Male treefrogs call mainly in the evening and at night,
although they often call sporadically during the day at the height
of the breeding season. A dry-land call made by male treefrogs away
from their breeding ponds is a single-note Krr-r-r-ek.
When Hollywood moviemakers wanted frog calls to
convey the feeling of nighttime outdoors, they recorded treefrogs.
Consequently the "ribbit-ribbit" calls of this species have
become the stereotypical frog call, even in areas where treefrogs
don't occur.
Facts
about Washington Treefrogs
Habitat
Needs of Adults
- Depending
on location, treefrogs move into breeding sites from February
(coastal areas) to July. Breeding sites include ponds, swamps,
marshes, and roadside ditches—even puddles that dry up
during the warm months.
- Outside
of the breeding season, adult treefrogs inhabit a variety of
habitats, including woodlands, meadows, pastures, and gardens—at
times several hundred yards from water. Note: Ponds,
swamps, marshes, and similar spots are used only a few weeks
or months of the year; treefrogs spend the rest of the year
in surrounding areas.
- During
dry periods and in arid areas, adult treefrogs are active only
at night, spending the day in water or shaded vegetation, a
rock or log crevice, rodent burrow, or other protected place.
- Treefrogs
secrete a waxy coating from their skin glands that allows them
to remain moist and travel far from water.
Food and
Feeding Habits
- Toe pads
on their front and hind toes enable treefrogs to climb in search
of beetles, flies, spiders, ants, and leafhoppers. Adults have
been seen and heard up in trees and outside windows two stories
high.
- Adult
treefrogs catch prey with their long, elastic-like, sticky ended
tongues.
- Treefrog
tadpoles eat algae, decaying vegetation, and scavenge on dead
earthworms, fish, or whatever else is available.
 |
Figure
2. The various life stages of a treefrog.
(Adapted from, Corkran, Amphibians of Oregon, Washington,
and British Columbia: A Field Identification Guide.) |
Reproduction
and Life Cycle
- Male treefrogs
are the first to move into their aquatic breeding areas and
soon begin chorusing to attract females. Males chorus while
floating at the surface or sitting partially submerged in shallow
water.
- Females
lay 400 to 750 eggs, which are externally fertilized by the
male.
- Individual
egg masses contain 10 to 75 eggs, measure 1 to 2 inches across,
and are surrounded by a special jelly that swells up on contact
with water.
- Egg masses
are attached to sticks or grasslike vegetation below the surface,
or may be on the bottom in shallow areas. Egg masses often become
camouflaged with algae and sediment.
- Eggs hatch
more quickly in warmer water, with the time averaging two to
three weeks.
- Tiny hatchlings
soon turn into tadpoles with short, round bodies and eyes that
bulge out at the sides of their heads (Fig. 2).
- In five
to six weeks, tadpoles turn into 1/2-inch long, air-breathing
juvenile frogs that climb onto land but eventually return, like
their parents, to breed in water.
- Treefrog
populations are notorious for dramatic year-to-year fluctuations.
They may not breed at all if the rainy period of the year is
too short, as happens in some droughty years.
Mortality
and Longevity
- Treefrog
eggs are eaten by caddisfly larvae and fish. Fungus and frost
also kills some eggs.
- Treefrog
tadpoles are eaten by dragonfly larvae, diving beetles, fish,
long-toed salamander larvae, bullfrogs, garter snakes, and birds
(herons, ducks, and jays).
- On land
and at the water's edge, raccoons, foxes, coyotes, river otters,
skunks, snakes, hawks, and owls eat adult treefrogs. Cats, children,
lawn mowers, and vehicles all take their toll on adult treefrogs.
- The loss
of wetlands and natural ponds eliminates breeding areas; chemicals
from pesticides and runoff poison treefrogs and their food.
- Most treefrogs
die at the egg or tadpole stage, hence having a life expectancy
of only a few weeks. Treefrogs that reach adulthood live an
average of two years in the wild.
Table
1. Native Frogs of Washington
 |
| Figure
3. The Red-legged frog can be as much as 4 inches
long and gets its name from the deep wine-red (burgundy) undersides
of its legs, thighs, and portions of the belly.
(Washington Dept. of Fish and Wildlife.) |
 |
Figure
4. The Oregon spotted frog occurs in a handful of
localities in the Puget Sound lowlands.
(Photo by William Leonard.) |
|
| Figure
5. The native Northern leopard frog populations have
declined dramatically and this frog has been wiped out in much
of the Pacific Northwest. (Washington Department
of Fish and Wildlife.) |
In the cooler,
more moist areas of Washington, the frogs you are likely to hear
or see are the treefrog and red-legged frog; in arid areas the
dominant species are the treefrog and the spotted frog. The following
are descriptions of these and other less common species:
The red-legged
frog (Rana aurora, Fig. 3) is fairly common west of
crest of the Cascade Range. It inhabits moist forests near cool
ponds, lakes, and slow streams, especially where aquatic vegetation
provides cover. During the nonbreeding season this frog may be
found several hundred yards or more away from permanent water.
It can be as much as 4 inches long and gets its name from the
deep wine-red (burgundy) undersides of its legs, thighs, and portions
of the belly.
The call
is a series of five to seven quiet, low-pitched notes—uh-uh-uh-uh-uh.
Males often call from under water and the call is barely audible
when made above water.
The Columbia
spotted frog (Rana luteiventris) occurs east of the
Cascade mountains in marshy edges of permanent ponds, lakes, and
streams. Adults are 3 inches long and light to dark brown, gray,
or olive green, with dark spots on their back, sides, and legs.
The undersides of their legs are bright red, salmon, or orange.
Their upturned bright-yellow eyes are characteristic of this frog.
It is uncommon
to hear this frog call, but it may allow you to observe it closely.
Its call is a rapid series of 5 to 30 faint, low-pitched, hollow
notes that sound like a distant woodpecker tapping on hard, resonant
wood.
The species
formerly known as the "spotted frog" has recently been separated
into this species and its near relative, the Oregon spotted
frog (Rana pretiosa, Fig. 4). The Oregon spotted frog
is similar in appearance and occurs in a handful of localities
in the Puget Sound lowlands.
The Cascades
frog (Rana cascadae) occupies mountain meadows and
moist forests above 1,500 feet. This frog breeds in marshy bogs
or ponds, often along the margins of slow-moving mountain-meltwater
streams. It is 2-1/2 inches long and olive to brown, usually with
black spots on its back and legs. The undersides of the adults'
legs are yellow. Its call is a series of low-pitched clucking
noises.
The Northern
leopard frog (Rana pipiens, Fig. 5) occurs only in
a few areas in eastern Washington. Their populations have declined
dramatically and they have been wiped out in much of the Pacific
Northwest. This frog reaches 4 inches in length and is easily
recognized by the large, dark spots with pale borders on its back,
sides, and legs. Its call lasts several seconds and consists of
a series of low-pitched snorts or grunts that have been compared
to the puttering of a small motorboat.
Viewing
Frogs
Frogs tend
to be more active at lower temperatures than snakes and lizards.
As a result, they can be seen in the fall and early spring when
most reptiles are in a hibernation-like state. On warm, rainy
nights during spring and fall, search trails, roads, and other
openings for adult frogs (and toads) on the way to or from breeding
sites.
Examine ponds,
swamps, marshes, and other bodies of fresh water from February
through August for breeding adults, eggs, tadpoles, or juveniles.
Slowly and quietly approach the area, using binoculars to detect
animals visible along the waterline or the characteristic dual
eye-bumps of frogs on the water surface.
Adult and
juvenile frogs are usually found at the surface, at the water's
edge, or in moist vegetation along the shore. Recently metamorphosed
juveniles often are found under objects around the edges of the
water. Occasionally, after rains, they can be found moving into
upland areas near breeding sites in large numbers. When examining
areas under rocks, wood, and other material, always carefully
replace the covering in its original position.
Breeding
sites for frogs are often located in the warmest water locations,
including water within or adjacent to thin-stemmed emergent plants
such as rushes, sedges, and aquatic grasses. Tadpoles are found
near large pieces of wood or rocks that store heat. Likewise,
they tend to cluster in the warmest water they can find—often
in shallow areas with lots of sun exposure.
Most frogs
start to call about half an hour after sunset. Calling also occurs
during dark and rainy days. When listening to identify a frog
species, remember that the calls are generally slower in colder
temperatures, and faster when it is warm. (See individual species
descriptions for specific call information.)
Handling
frogs can be hazardous to their health and needs to be done carefully—or
not at all. Their permeable skin could absorb harmful chemicals
from your hands, such as lotion or bug repellent. Amphibians can
also die from moisture loss, known as desiccation. Handling them
increases this risk. (See Collecting and
Releasing Amphibians.)
Attracting
and Maintaining Amphibians on Your Property
Because their
total habitat requirements extend from water onto the land, it
is difficult to maintain wild frogs and other amphibians in most
yards. If your yard is surrounded by concrete and highly maintained
landscapes, chances are slim that these interesting animals will
visit.
The chances
of hosting frogs and other amphibians increase if your property
adjoins an undeveloped area, such as a greenbelt or other wild
area, or if it is next to a wetland, stormwater retention pond,
or other freshwater area. Your chances further increase if you
establish and maintain a natural landscape. Treefrogs are very
good at colonizing new areas.
| Tips
for Frog Watchers |
| Here
are some hints for frog watchers heading into the field:
- If
you frog-watch alone, let someone know where you are going
and when you plan to be back.
- Don't
wade out into ponds or marshes—you will scare the
frogs, and there is the risk that you may slip and fall
into the water.
- Keep
a close eye on children.
- Have
a change of clothes just in case you get wet.
- Watch
for stinging insects. If you have an allergy to stings,
be absolutely sure you have your sting kit with you.
- Use
polarized sunglasses and binoculars for better viewing.
- If
you are frog-watching on private land, ask permission from
the landowner.
- Make
sure dogs are leashed—better still, leave them at
home.
|
To attract
and maintain amphibians on your property:
Protect
existing natural areas to the greatest extent possible. Protect
woodlands, wetlands, meadows, stream corridors, shorelines, and
other wildlife habitat on your property; encourage your friends
and neighbors to do the same. Support public acquisition of greenbelts,
remnant forests, and other wild areas in your community. Write
to legislators and attend public meetings when regulations are
being considered.
Protect
buffer areas next to streams, lakes, or ponds. The vegetated
buffers surrounding these areas protect the ecological functions
and value of the breeding habitat, and provide needed upland habitat
for amphibians.
Wherever
possible, protect migration paths between uplands and breeding
sites. If amphibian migrations to breeding sites cross neighborhood
roads, try placing signs to inform local drivers of this crossing.
If a new road is to be constructed in migration areas, work for
installation of amphibian crossing structures, such as small tunnels
under the roadway. Amphibian movements can also be guided by means
of drift fences and large logs. If you have an area on your property
that is used by migrating amphibians, leave the area as natural
as possible.
Leave
a portion of your grass unmowed, especially in areas that
adjoin a wet area, forest edge, or any other distinct habitat,
as well as any area that is being used by migrating amphibians.
If you must mow in these areas, mow at slower speeds and be ready
to step on the clutch or brake. Set the mower blades as high as
possible, or use a weed-whacker and leave grass 6 inches high.
Regularly
mow any areas you want to keep as lawn to prevent longer grass
developing where frogs may hide. Mowing in hot, dry weather
will minimize the chances of finding amphibians, and making some
disturbances before mowing may encourage frogs to hop out of the
way. Don't mow or weed-whack when many amphibians are seen breeding
migrations or juvenile dispersal periods.
Preserve
leaf litter under trees and shrubs. Such material provides
cover and moisture; it also attracts organisms that amphibians
eat.
 |
| Figure
6. Retain stumps, logs, rootwads, rock piles, and other
debris that provides a cool, moist habitat for amphibians. (From
Link, Landscaping for Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest.)
|
Retain
stumps, logs, rootwads, rock piles, and other debris that provides
a cool, moist habitat for amphibians. Such habitat features
provide much needed cover. All these can be strategically located
as "stepping stones" across exposed areas, or to bridge gaps between
breeding ponds and woods. To be effective in exposed areas, keep
the structures within 15 feet of each other.
With permission
from landowners, you could salvage these materials from cleared
or logged areas and install them in your landscape, preferably
away from busy roads (Fig. 6).
Consider
building a pond. Treefrogs will breed in almost any type or
size of pond. If your pond is aimed at amphibians in general,
however, it is critical not to stock fish, given the problems
with predation and the increased nutrient load that may result.
For fish lovers, one option is to build a separate pond specifically
for fish.
Fence
large ponds to prevent access by livestock, to protect the
water, and to allow a more diverse plant community to grow, providing
cover for amphibians and their food source.
Avoid
using pesticides and herbicides. Amphibians have highly permeable
skin that can absorb toxic chemicals from your lawn, and they
can be poisoned directly or indirectly through their food, such
as slugs and snails. Moss-killers and roof treatment chemicals
can also be toxic, and often such runoff is directly channeled
into wetlands via pipes or sewer outflows.
Collecting
and Releasing Frogs
If frogs
are not present in your yard, there is probably a good reason.
Generally, the conditions surrounding your property are not right
for them. Attempting to move a frog into your yard when conditions
are not appropriate for it will probably result in killing the
animal.
Another reason
for not relocating these animals is their well-developed homing
instinct. Many will immediately leave an unfamiliar area and,
drawn by instinct, try to return to their place of origin. This
usually results in their being killed on roads or by predators
they are exposed to on their journey.
If you enhance
your yard for frogs, and if they occur naturally in your general
vicinity, sooner or later you will probably enjoy seeing them
on your property. Meanwhile, work with the wildlife species that
do visit your property and help preserve nearby wild areas.
Many frog
species are popular as pets. Unfortunately, owners often tire
of them and release them (illegally) to fend for themselves (see
Legal Status). Many of the pet-store species
cannot survive our climate and will die if released. On the other
hand, some species, such as the bullfrog often do survive. They
may introduce new diseases or compete with native frogs and other
species.
Preventing Conflicts
 |
| Figure
7. The male treefrog amplifies his voice with a resonating
throat sac he blows up to three times the size of his head.
(Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife.)
|
The noise
one or more treefrogs may be annoying to some people, particularly
light sleepers (Fig. 7).
If for some
reason the presence of frogs cannot be tolerated, or to exclude
them from an area where they might be injured or killed, install
a barrier. Aluminum hardware cloth, or another type of rust-resistant
material, can be used to surround a pump or other mechanical device
within the pond to eliminate mortality. This will need to be maintained
regularly. Note: a fence will not keep treefrogs out.
To prevent
frogs from breeding in a small pond, keep it empty, or keep a
waterfall or other source of turbulence in place to discourage
frogs from using it during the breeding season. Egg masses can
also be removed, as can adults. Or just add fish! (See below for
information on managing bullfrogs.)
Repellents
and scare devices do not work on frogs. No poisons should ever
be added to the water to keep these animals out.
Bullfrogs
The bullfrog
(Rana catesbeiana, Fig. 8) has successfully spread throughout
the low elevations of Washington. Large populations of this species
are believed to have contributed both directly and indirectly
to the drastic decline of native amphibians and reptiles.
The bullfrog
is the largest true frog in North America. It can measure 8 inches
in length, leap up to 3 feet, and live nearly ten years. Bullfrogs
are occasionally seen crossing roads, even during periods of dry
weather, and may travel overland up to a mile. This movement allows
them to expand their range from the source where they were introduced.
The large number of eggs in each egg mass laid by the females
allows bullfrogs to quickly establish themselves within a new
territory.
Bullfrogs
get their name from the bar-room mating call made by the males.
Juveniles and adults of both sexes emit a squeak just prior to
jumping into water when avoiding an intruder.
The original
native range of bullfrogs was the eastern United States, but they
have been introduced to most of western North America, from southern
British Columbia to Baja California. Bullfrogs were first introduced
into Washington during the Great Depression (early 1930s) to provide
opportunities for frog hunting, food (i.e., frog legs), and stock
for frog farms, enterprises that rarely succeeded.
Bullfrogs
thrive in the warm waters of natural and man-made ponds, marshes,
sloughs, reservoirs, and sluggish irrigation ditches and streams.
Bullfrogs tolerate polluted and muddy waters better than do most
native frogs, and may be found within cities in wetlands, reservoirs,
and stormwater ponds.
 |
| Figure
8. Bullfrogs are expanding their range as individuals
colonize suitable habitats—often using constructed stormwater
ponds as stepping-stones between natural wetlands. Bullfrogs
also spread to new habitats when released as unwanted pets and
after people share frog eggs with their neighbors, not knowing
the damage they can do. (Photo by Jim Pruske.) |
In their northern
range and in cooler climates, bullfrogs persist only in year-round
bodies of water because they require two years to develop from
eggs into adult frogs. In their southern range and in warmer areas,
they have been known to fully metamorphose in one year and colonize
semi-permanent and seasonal ponds. (Such cases have been documented
by biologists in Oregon.)
Bullfrogs
breed only after the nights warm up and reach the high 60s and
70s (Fahrenheit), generally June and July here in Washington.
Adult bullfrogs
and tadpoles overwinter in mud on the bottom of ponds and other
bodies of water. They hibernate by burying themselves in surface
mud or by digging cave like holes underwater. Adults also hibernate
on land near ponds where they bury themselves within the soil.
Their body temperature may drop virtually to the freezing point,
and their hearts slow so drastically they seem to atop altogether.
But they continue to absorb oxygen through their moist skin, and
when their surroundings thaw, they emerge into the spring sunshine
to resume their business of catching insects and other prey.
Adult bullfrogs
usually are "sit and wait" predators that readily attack almost
any live animal smaller than themselves—insects, frogs,
tadpoles, fish, small snakes, turtle hatchlings, newts, salamanders,
bats, hummingbirds, and ducklings. Bullfrogs use their sticky
tongues to subdue prey, but that's not their only method of securing
food. Large frogs are more likely to lunge at their targets. Once
they get a grip with their wide, sturdy jaws, they use their front
feet to shove the items down their gullets.
Garter snakes
regularly catch and eat bullfrog tadpoles and adults. Painted
turtles also eat some in late summer, when adult and developing
bullfrogs become sluggish for some unknown reason. Large bullfrogs
also capture smaller ones and eat them.
The relatively
unpalatable nature of bullfrog tadpoles may give them the ability
to coexist with many otherwise potential fish predators. Bullfrog
eggs can be eaten by many predators (leeches, salamanders, fish)
with no obvious detrimental effects to the predator.
Under no
circumstances should you take or purchase bullfrog tadpoles for
your home pond, transfer wild-caught bullfrogs, or in any way
encourage them to expand their range. If you are adding plants
or water to a small pond, make sure you are not also adding bullfrog
eggs or tadpoles.
| Bullfrog
Identification |
|
 |
| Figure
9. Bullfrog tadpoles are dark green with black dots,
orange or bronze eyes, and opaque yellow underbellies.
(Photo by Russell Link.)
|
Each female
bullfrog creates one thin-jelly egg mass that may contain 6,000
to 20,000 very small eggs, which are black on top and white
underneath. Egg masses are generally found in water that is
less than 2 feet deep in mid to late summer. The eggs start
out as a round, basketball-size mass (below or near the surface)
that then rises, flattens out, and forms a 2- to 4-inch gelatinous
mass 2 feet in diameter. The egg mass floats on the surface
of the water or rests on the bottom within sparse vegetation.
The mass remains attached to deep vegetation in some places
and is often covered in algae.
The tadpoles are dark green with black dots, orange or bronze
eyes, and opaque yellow underbellies (Fig. 9). A two-year-old
tadpole may be 4 to 6 inches long.
The juveniles
are green to brown with a peppering of tiny black spots, and
have orange or bronze eyes. A fold of skin extends from the
eye around the eardrum.
Adult
bullfrogs have thickset bodies, large, exposed eardrums, and
are green, tan, or dark brown above (with dark spots). Male
bullfrogs have a yellow throat. The eardrums on males are
larger than the eyes, while the female's eardrums are the
same size as the eyes. The eyes of both sexes are gold. |
Managing
Bullfrogs
The removal
of bullfrogs is unlikely to be a viable management option in most
wild or semi-wild situations owing to the difficulty of removing
all bullfrog eggs, tadpoles, and adults, and preventing surrounding
bullfrogs from invading the water body. However, in a small wetland
or pond it may be possible to eliminate the local bullfrog population
by visiting the pond daily through the breeding season and removing
all eggs, tadpoles, and adults. Long-term success depends on closely
monitoring the pond to prevent other bullfrogs from breeding.
Bullfrog
control techniques should be limited to those that cause the least
harm to native amphibians. At least one person should be able
to identify all stages of native amphibians when attempting to
manage bullfrog populations. Foot traffic in areas where many
juvenile toads, red-legged frogs, or other species are about should
be minimized.
Adult bullfrogs
are difficult to gig or catch in nets because they are very wary
and leap for the water at first approach. However, when they stare
at a bright light at night, they seem unable to see a hand, net,
or frog gig reaching out to grab them. Wear a headlamp to keep
your hands free, or have someone next to you spot the bullfrogs
using a powerful flashlight. Some people have found capturing
adult bullfrogs in turtle hoop-nets to be a useful management
technique.
Shooting
adult bullfrogs using a single-shot 4/10 shotgun has been successful.
Alternatively, a pellet gun or a bolt-action .22-caliber rim-fire
rifle and dust-shot bullets can be used at close range. Use only
dust shot in the .22, not conventional ammunition. Because all
shot has the potential to ricochet, exercise extreme caution when
discharging firearms on or near water.
Because adult
bullfrogs are less active in cooler water, usually March and April
are the best months for catching or shooting them.
Bullfrog
tadpoles are equally difficult to catch because they quickly swim
to deeper water to avoid capture. However, capture is made easier
if the water body in which the tadpoles (and adults) live and
breed is lowered with a pump or by another means to make them
more accessible. Tadpoles are best captured using a long-handled
dip net (not a fish net).
Tadpole collection
should be done when non-target species (especially native amphibians)
are unlikely to be caught. For instance, in early September, when
native frogs and salamanders occupying the site have turned into
their juvenile stage and the only tadpoles left are bullfrog tadpoles.
Bullfrog
eggs should be carefully collected in a large dip net or a 5-gallon
bucket to avoid breaking up the egg masses. Clipping of vegetation
may be necessary to dislodge the egg masses.
Euthanasia
of adult bullfrogs and tadpoles can be by a blow to the head or
the two-stage process of refrigerating the animals for an hour
to slow down their respiratory system and then freezing them.
The same can be done for the eggs, or they can be left a distance
away from the water body to be eaten by a bird or other animal.
Since bullfrogs
generally require two years to develop, it may be possible to
rid an area of these animals by draining the water body they inhabit.
This assumes that there isn't another nearby water body that can
serve as temporary harborage. (Where ponds have dried up naturally,
adult bullfrogs have been known to seek refuge in nearby wells,
springs, animal burrows, and crevices in the ground.)
Legal
Status
The Northern
leopard frog and Oregon spotted frog are state endangered
species (WAC
232-12-014) and cannot be hunted or trapped. All other species
of frogs are unclassified and can be controlled without a permit.
The bullfrog
is classified as a prohibited aquatic animal species (WAC
220-12-090). No license is required to hunt bullfrogs, there
are no bag limits, and the season is open year round.
It is unlawful
to import into the state, hold, possess, offer for sale, sell,
or release all frog species into the wild without the proper license
to do so (WAC
232-12-064).
Additional
Information
Books
Corkran,
Charlotte C., and Chris Thoms. Amphibians of Oregon, Washington,
and British Columbia: A Field Identification Guide. Vancouver,
BC, and Redmond, WA: Lone Pine, 1996.
Kozloff,
Eugene N. Plants and Animals of the Pacific Northwest.
Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1976.
Leonard,
William P., et al. Amphibians of Washington and Oregon.
Seattle: Seattle Audubon Society, 1993.
Link, Russell.
Landscaping for Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest. Seattle:
University of Washington Press and the Washington Department
of Fish and Wildlife, 1999.
Matson,
Tim. Earth Ponds: The Country Pond Maker's Guide to Building,
Maintenance, and Restoration. Woodstock, VT: Countryman
Press, 1991.
Nash, Helen.
The Pond Doctor: Planning and Maintaining a Healthy Water
Garden. New York: Sterling, 1994.
Nussbaum,
Ronald A., et al. Amphibians and Reptiles of the Pacific
Northwest. Moscow, ID: University of Idaho Press, 1983.
Storm,
R. M., and W. P. Leonard, eds. Reptiles of Washington and
Oregon. Seattle: Seattle Audubon Society, 1995.
Internet
Sites
Pacific
Northwest Herpetological Society
Burke
Museum Amphibians of Washington
The
Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management
|